I’ve been back from Paris for about two weeks now, and I don’t want to say I’ve become that “Paris” video from Kate Berlant and John Early, but I’m also not not that either. “I find that I miss it!” To prepare to go to a luxury based culture, I brought some old favorite fragrances and a new favorite—BOHOBOCO Sea Salt Caramel (sadly I didn’t fall in love in Paris), Fulton and Roarke Mahana, and Diptique Oyedo. If you’ve read this humble newsletter, you know I was in my zone in Paris in terms of fragrance and add in tinned fishes, foie gras, and vintage designer and I was nearly ready to pack up my Brooklyn basement apartment for chicer pastures.
What I Bought
L’Officine Universelle Buly
I had been told by all the perfume people I know to go to L’Officine Universelle Buly, so I dragged a friend along with me and we went to the location on Rue Bonaparte. I didn’t know much about the founder Jean-Vincent Bully, but his history is pretty wild. Going into the store was a fragrance experience unlike any I had been to—it was like stepping foot into an apothecary of the past—full of tangible objects that shouldn’t seem foreign like tortoiseshell combs or customizable matchbooks—but did. Filled with stunning wood cabinetry, it was filled with dozens of glass bottles to smell the fragrances (plus, the hottest man I’ve ever seen was working there). I ended up getting a sample pack of Buly’s latest scent collection, Jardins Français de l'Officine Universelle Buly, all based on garden fragrances. I’ve been working my way through the scents slowly, but the Caribbean Sweet Potato and Afghan Carrot was a hit when I wore it to Thanksgiving.
Fragonard
Founded by Eugène Fuchs, Fragonard is the oldest perfumeries in Grasse (located in the south of France. They opened their first store in 1936 and Fuchs’s long love of perfume led him to collect fragrance memorabilia. That led to the Musee du Parfum, which is where I visited while I was in Paris, that documents the history of perfumery. I ended up getting a sample set of Fragonard scents including their infamous Belle de Nuit (violet, rose, musk) which was introduced in 1946.
Nose
There’s not much to say other than Nose is fucking cool. I went to their store in the 2nd arrondissement and it was a haven full of brands I knew and ones I hadn’t heard of (I simply must try Voyages Imaginaires Tea & Rock’NRoll). If you want, you can get a scent diagnosis if you will, where you tell them the most recent fragrances you’ve been wearing, what notes you like, and then they give you recommendations in the store that you can try on. My favorite of my recommendations is Ex Nihlio’s latest Blue Talisman which has notes of ginger, bergamot, and orange blossom. I ended up getting some samples from Lucky Scent because a bottle is above my freelance pay grade and a friend told me I smelled like “sexy woods,” so I may need to take out a loan to get a bottle. I also got a small discovery set from a new to me brand, Matiere Premiere, where I got two French inspired fragrances, Parisian Musc and French Flower, when in Paris, etc. etc. I also got Vanilla Powder which was a wonderful surprise—it has coconut powder and Palo Santo in it which makes the vanilla richer and less sweet. It’s going to be a winter staple for me.
Hôtel Plaza Athénée
This might be the chicest hotel I’ve ever seen. I got to do a tour of it—filled with flowers, chandeliers, Dior sketches—my first thought was that Miss Piggy would love it. And that’s maybe one of the highest compliments I can give. But the thing that enchanted me the most upon walking in was the smell—frankly I barely can describe it—but it was warm and glamorous, slightly sweet and comforting. Turns out it’s a signature scent that’s only for the Plaza Athénée and luckily for me, they sell a candle of it. So now when I’m missing Paris, I can spark that up and dream in French.
What I Learned About Perfume
I had to pay my respects to perfume by going to the Musee du Parfum, where I also did a perfume workshop where I got to make my own perfume! The museum opened in 1983 and boasts an absolutely incredible collection of fragrance related items as it goes through the history of perfume making. Truthfully, I took so many pictures there I could make a powerpoint presentation on it. But I also learned a lot about perfume—here are some of my favorite new facts.
Base notes in a fragrance essentially adhere it to the skin which allows for the fragrance to last longer.
The Egyptians were the first to create perfume burning flowers, plants, fruits—basically anything to create a scented smoke. And that’s why it’s called perfume because in Latin it’s per fumum which means through the smoke.
Perfume was used a lot in religious ceremonies because it was thought that they could communicate with the gods through smoke.
There’s something called a perfumer’s ORGAN!!! (See above.)
The best way to neutralize your nose in between scents isn’t coffee beans, it’s to smell yourself. (There’s a metaphor in there I’m sure).
Perfume Ad of the Week
Directed by Sofia Coppola and starring Natalie Portman for Dior, this was basically my Paris trip except replace the guy (who looks like Alden Ehrenreich, is it?) with Häagen-Dazs Macadamia Nut Brittle ice cream and macarons.